Wave size this day: 10-12ft Equipment: 6'4 Next Step, No lea..
Added 2021-07-16 18:17:07 +0000 UTCWave size this day: 10-12ft Equipment: 6'4 Next Step, No leash, why? so board doesn't break Situation: doing jet ski assisted step offs therefore the lack of a leash, too deep in roughly a 12ft barrel, beat down, two additional waves in impact zone. The advice I often hear "stay calm, relax, lower your heart rate" this I feel is a double edged sword! I ask how? This is a dangerous and threatening situation for the unexperienced or even experienced waterman, stay calm lower your heart rate? I think not, adrenaline is a key ingredient to survival, heightened focus, faster reflexes, strength, oxygen production all things critical to survival in such a situation. In my opinion a better way to put it is to stay Clear headed and Stay READY. There is a difference to being calm and being Ready for the unexpected! don't let the pendulum swing to far, not too relaxed but not in a state of panic both can be devastating! You should never underestimate the situation EVER especially without experience. Instead look to make clear calculated decisions on the situation, where is my board? where is the jet ski? how far am I from beach? how far from being out the back safe of impact zone? can I position to let wave wash me in or can I, should I avoid all impact? I may look "relaxed" as can be in this video but trust me I am wired and ready to react to any situation that arises! Complete in depth video on this subject coming soon, I want you guys to be more comfortable in larger surf and the stresses that come with it so you are free to push your limits as you wish!
